3D Toolset

PETG Filament Settings & Guide

PETG is the tough, water-resistant step up from PLA — here are the temperatures, speeds, drying rules and fixes that give clean prints on a typical hobby printer.

PETG specification summary

Nozzle temp
220–250 °C
Bed temp
70–85 °C
Print speed
30–80 mm/s
Density
1.27 g/cm³
Enclosure
Not required
Drying
65 °C for ~5 h

What is PETG filament?

PETG (polyethylene terephthalate glycol) is a tough, slightly flexible 3D printing filament made from the same plastic family as drinks bottles, with glycol added so it stays clear and prints without crystallising. It sits between PLA and ABS: nearly as easy to print as PLA, but stronger, more impact resistant and far better at handling water, humidity and mild chemicals.

Compared with PLA, PETG bonds more firmly between layers, so parts are less likely to snap along layer lines, and it stays rigid up to roughly 70 °C. That suits a warm room but not a parked car in summer. It shrinks very little, so it rarely warps and does not need an enclosure. The trade-offs are a softer surface that scratches more easily, a tendency to string and ooze, and a talent for sticking too well to some build plates. If you are still deciding on a material, compare PETG against PLA and ABS side by side.

PETG print settings

These are consensus ranges; brands vary, so start mid-range and adjust.

SettingRecommendedNotes
Nozzle temperature220–250 °CStart near the middle and tune with a temperature tower. Cooler reduces stringing; hotter improves layer bonding.
Bed temperature70–85 °C75–80 °C suits most plates. Hot enough to grip the first layer without welding to it.
Print speed30–80 mm/sPrint the first layer slowly, around 20 mm/s. Slower outer walls give a glossier finish.
Part cooling fan30–50 %Keep it low for strong layer bonding; raise it for bridges and small details. Often off for the first few layers.
Layer height0.16–0.28 mm0.20 mm is a sound default on a 0.4 mm nozzle. Thicker layers also help adhesion.
Retraction~1 mm direct drive / 4–6 mm BowdenToo much retraction in PETG causes clogs and blobs, so tune upwards in small steps.
Hardened nozzleNot requiredA standard brass nozzle is fine for unfilled filament.
EnclosureNot requiredPrints fine on an open-frame printer in a draught-free room.

Drying PETG

Dry PETG at 65 °C for about 5 hours in a filament dryer or a controlled oven. Moisture sensitivity is medium.

PETG is not as thirsty as nylon, but it does absorb moisture from the air. Wet PETG announces itself with crackling or popping at the nozzle, fine hairs between parts, tiny bubbles and a rough, matte surface. If you see those signs, dry the spool before changing any slicer settings.

Stay at or below about 65 °C — PETG begins to soften not far above that, and a hotter dryer can deform the spool. Once dry, print from a sealed box with desiccant.

Common PETG printing problems

  • stringing

    Fine hairs between parts happen because PETG stays runny when hot and often carries moisture. Dry the spool first, then drop the nozzle temperature in 5 °C steps and raise retraction slightly. Our retraction settings calculator gives a sensible starting distance and speed for your extruder.

    Retraction Settings Calculator →

  • oozing

    Oozing is molten plastic leaking from the nozzle during travel moves, leaving blobs and wisps. Lower the temperature a few degrees, enable wiping or coasting if your slicer offers it, and shorten travel distances.

    Print Troubleshooting Guide →

  • sticking too well to the build plate

    PETG can bond so strongly to smooth PEI or glass that it pulls chips out of the plate when removed. Print on a thin layer of glue stick as a release agent, use a slightly higher first layer so the nozzle does not squash the filament, and let the bed cool before removing the part. For the opposite problem, see the bed adhesion guide.

    Bed Adhesion Guide →

  • blobs

    Blobs and zits appear where pressure in the nozzle is released at the start and end of each line, and PETG is prone to them because it is sticky. Reduce retraction, avoid very fast travel and tune the seam position. Slowing the outer walls often removes the worst of them too.

    Print Troubleshooting Guide →

What to print with PETG

  • Functional parts. Clips, spacers, electronics enclosures and replacement knobs that must survive knocks and handling.
  • Mechanical brackets. Brackets and mounts that need some give before breaking. PETG flexes a little where PLA would snap.
  • Water-resistant containers. Planters, bathroom holders and outdoor boxes, since PETG absorbs very little water.
  • Protective covers. Guards, shields and lenses; PETG stays tough, and natural or clear colours can be semi-transparent.

Plan and price your PETG prints

Once your settings are dialled in, work out what a print will really cost. Use the print cost calculator to add material, electricity and time, and the filament usage estimator to see how many grams of PETG a model needs before you slice it. PETG is denser than PLA, at 1.27 g/cm³ against 1.24 g/cm³, so the same model weighs a little more. If prints fail at high speed, check the nozzle flow rate calculator to see whether you are exceeding your hotend's melting capacity, and compare layer heights with the layer height optimiser.

Frequently asked questions

Most PETG prints well between 230 and 245 °C, within a wider 220–250 °C range. Start near 235 °C and use a temperature tower to fine-tune. Lower temperatures reduce stringing, while higher ones improve layer bonding. Set the heated bed to 70–85 °C and slow the first layer to about 20 mm/s.

Yes. PETG prints most reliably with the bed at 70–85 °C, which keeps the first layer soft enough to bond and reduces corner lifting. It does not need an enclosure, because it shrinks far less than ABS. A clean build plate and a first layer that is not squashed too hard matter just as much.

PETG strings because it stays runny when hot and often holds moisture. Dry the spool first, then lower the nozzle temperature in 5 °C steps, increase retraction slightly and enable wiping or travel avoidance. Fan and speed matter too, so change one setting at a time and compare the results.

Usually yes. PETG absorbs moisture from the air, which causes popping sounds, stringing, bubbles and a rough surface. Dry it at about 65 °C for roughly five hours, then print from a sealed box with desiccant. A brand-new, vacuum-sealed spool often prints fine straight away without drying.

In everyday use, yes. PETG is tougher and more impact resistant than PLA, bonds better between layers and bends slightly before breaking instead of snapping. PLA is stiffer and holds sharper detail, but it softens near 55 °C, whereas PETG tolerates roughly 70 °C. For functional, outdoor or wet parts, PETG is usually better.

Raw PETG is widely used for food packaging, but a 3D print is not automatically food safe. Layer lines trap bacteria, the nozzle may carry other materials' residue, and colourants are not always food grade. Do not treat a print as food safe without food-safe sealing and a stainless or hardened steel nozzle, and even then check the manufacturer's statement.

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