Print Cost Calculator

Estimate the true cost of a 3D print, including material, electricity, and optional labor and machine depreciation.

Material

Power & Printer

Wattage is the printer's rated PSU power from the manufacturer's spec sheet, not a measured average draw. Adjust the field below if you know your actual usage.

Advanced

Results

Live estimate based on the values above

Total cost

$4.32

Material
$4.00
Electricity
$0.11
Labor
$0.00
Machine depreciation
$0.00
Post-processing
$0.00

Cost per gram

$0.02

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Recommended Filament

MatterHackers PRO Series PLA

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What Is Print Cost Calculation and Why Does It Matter

When you slice a model and hit print, it's easy to think of the job as free once you already own the printer and the spool. In reality, every print consumes filament, electricity, printer wear, and — if you're running a print farm or side business — your own time. Print cost calculation adds up all of those inputs so the number on the screen reflects what a print actually costs to produce, not just the price of the plastic. For hobbyists, this turns "I have some filament left" into an honest per-print budget. For anyone selling prints, it matters even more: quoting based on filament price alone is one of the fastest ways to lose money on every job, since electricity, labor, and machine wear don't show up on the receipt but still come out of your pocket.

How to Use This Calculator

This calculator is built around the two inputs every print needs — filament weight and print time — plus your printer's power draw and your local electricity rate. Start with the Material group: enter the filament weight from your slicer and what you paid per kilogram. In Power & Printer, pick your printer from the preset list or type in your own measured wattage, then add your slicer's estimated print time and electricity rate. The result updates instantly as you type. Open the Advanced section for a more complete number: it folds in a failure-rate buffer for wasted prints, a flat post-processing cost, an hourly labor rate, and machine depreciation per hour — all optional, so casual users can skip that section entirely.

How to Calculate Print Cost Manually

If you'd rather work the math out by hand, here's the manual process:

  1. Weigh your filament usage. Multiply the grams your slicer reports by your filament's price per kilogram, divided by 1,000, to get material cost.
  2. Calculate electricity cost. Multiply your printer's wattage by the print time in hours, divide by 1,000 to convert to kilowatt-hours, then multiply by your electricity rate per kWh.
  3. Add labor, if any. Multiply your hourly rate by the print time — this only applies if you're paying yourself or someone else to babysit the print.
  4. Add machine depreciation. Estimate how much of the printer's purchase price wears out per hour of use, and multiply by the print time.
  5. Add any flat costs. Post-processing materials — supports, sanding supplies, paint — get added once, not multiplied by time.
  6. Apply a failure-rate buffer. Add a percentage on top of the subtotal for prints that fail partway through; 5-10% is a common starting point for a well-tuned printer.

Add these together for total cost, then divide by filament weight for a cost-per-gram figure to compare across prints.

Cost Breakdown Reference

The exact split depends on the model and your setup, but for a mid-size FDM print on a personal printer, costs tend to cluster into a fairly predictable pattern:

Cost componentTypical % of total cost
Material (filament)60-75%
Electricity5-15%
Labor (if applicable)0-25%
Machine depreciation5-15%

Material dominates for most hobbyist prints since electricity and depreciation are genuinely small on a typical FDM printer; labor only becomes a major line item once you're charging for your time on a print-service job.

Common Mistakes When Estimating Print Cost

  • Ignoring failed prints. If one in ten prints fails, real material cost runs roughly 10% higher than a single-print estimate — build in a buffer rather than assuming every print succeeds.
  • Using nameplate wattage as the average draw. A power supply is rated well above what it actually pulls mid-print; a wattmeter reading gives a far more accurate electricity cost.
  • Forgetting post-processing. Supports, glue, sandpaper, and paint all cost money and rarely make it into a "cost per print" estimate.
  • Valuing labor at zero. Even hobbyists spend time leveling beds and swapping filament — if printing for others, that time has a real cost even unbilled.
  • Comparing prices without matching electricity rates. Cost per kWh varies a lot by region, so a "cheap" print elsewhere may not be cheap in your area.

Frequently Asked Questions

Planning the rest of a print job? Try the filament usage estimator or the print time estimator.